A Trio of Princess Wraps
Princess Wrap Top #426 Variations as a Second Layer
by Jan Raley
These three tops all originate from Princess Wrap #426 and are intended to be worn as a pullover, layered over a tee or turtleneck for these chillier months.
Our current selection of Sweater Knit Fabrics would work perfectly to make your own project!
The first top was simply cut a little bit larger than my normal size in order to accommodate a tee or turtleneck underneath and it was lengthened by 3”. The fabric is cotton/lycra from a past collection.
The second top is made from a medium sweater knit. For this top the princess seam was eliminated and a horizontal seam was added just below the bustline to attach a gathered lower panel.
In the third top I used Purple Grate, a lightweight sweater knit. The sweater was constructed using two Left Fronts with the top left hand side free (not sewn into the princess seam) and held in place with 5 buttons.
Second Top – Blue Sweater
Pin the Side Front #14 pattern piece to the Left Front #13 along the seamlines. Find and mark the center front. (I used the Back piece to help me). Mark a horizontal bodice seamline 3/8” below the point on the Left Front. Trace a new pattern piece for the Upper Front adding a 5/8” seam allowance below that seamline. Be sure to mark a center front notch at lower edge.
Make a new pattern piece for the Lower Front by adding 5/8” above the horizontal bodice seam and adding 2 1/2” beyond the center front for the fold line. Mark a dot 3” in from the center front on the bodice seam on both the Upper Front and Lower Front and add a notch for the center front. I also added 2 ½” to the length. Cut the lower Front on the fold. Add 2 ½” to the length of the Back piece.
Sew Upper Fronts to the Back along the shoulder seams. Turn the neckline in ½” and twin needle topstitch. Overlap the right front over the left front, matching center front notches. Baste raw edges together.
Sew 2 rows of basting on the Lower Front between the dots, one along the 5/8” seamline and another 1/8” away. Right sides together, match side seams, dots and CF notches. Pull the gathering threads until the Lower Front fits the upper between the dots. Evenly distribute the gathers. Single needle stitch this seam and then serge it.
Continue constructing the top following the pattern directions
Third Top – Purple Grate Sweater
For this top, cut two Left Fronts (13) and eliminate the Right Front (12). I added 3” to the length of the front and back. The side that is free (not caught in a seam) will need a facing. Make a facing pattern 2” wide, following the left princess seam. Cut one with the right side of the fabric facing up (see picture) and apply interfacing.
RS together sew the fronts to the back at the shoulder seams. Serge the facing to the left princess seam of the right front.
Edge serge the neckline, stopping 1” from the facing seam. Edge serge the long loose edge of the facing. Press a ½” hem along the entire neckline.
Turn the facing toward the front, RS together. Sew the upper edge following the pressed line. Turn right side out. Twin needle topstitch the neckline.
With right sides facing up, place the right front on top of the left front, matching notches along the princess seams.
RS together and matching notches, serge the Side Front (14) to the right princess seam through all three layers, stopping about 7” from the hem. Temporarily baste the remainder of that seam.
Fold the right front out of the way and serge the Side Front (14) to the left front only along the princess seam.
Continue construction per the pattern instructions for the sleeves and side seams.
Remove the basting on the right princess seam. Press up a 1 ½” hem on the right front (top layer), mitering at the corner.
Twin needle topstitch the hem in place. Close up the princess seam and serge.
Press up a 1 ½” hem on the rest of the top and twin needle topstitch in place, stopping at the princess seam of the overlay and starting again with the overlay folded out of the way.
Lay the top right front in position over the left front, lining up the bottom hems and left princess seam. Pin in place. Sew 5 buttons through both front layers at the princess seam.