In Studio Sample Maker
Keyhole Top & Pants for Wovens #1010
It’s never too early to get started on that fall wardrobe. Create the perfect business casual look with these pieces all in the same envelope.
The fabrics used are from the upcoming Fall 2010 Fabric Collection. The outer purple fabric of the Keyhole Top is cotton/lycra/rayon blend #735, and the inner gray fabric # 736 also a cotton/lycra/rayon blend. The Flared Pants are made with fabric #743 a cotton/polyester/lycra blend.
Two inches were added to the length of these pants with the simple slash and spread method of pattern adjustment pictured at left. After adjusting the length, I constructed the pants as directed.
The first change to the top was an adjustment to the keyhole shape. To make the opening a bit more rounded, I redrew the line. After doing so, I decided to give the keyhole only a ¼ inch seam allowance.
The same slash and spread method was used to add 3 inches to the top, shown to left.
I used a hip curve to redraw to side seam.
It is important to use a scrap of the fabrics to test your stitch settings on your machine to ensure that the fabric is not being stretched during construction. This is especially important when making the keyhole, and using a walking foot is the best way to handle with this issue.
This is what happened on my first attempt. The seam was stretched and no amount of pressing would fix it. The stitch length that I used was too tight and without the walking foot, the layers of fabric were not pushed through 
evenly creating this puckered appearance.
I attached my walking foot to the machine and tested to settings again. Instead of trying to remove the stitches and further stress this area, I decided to sew a new seam just outside of the original. (to right)
After trimming and pressing, I was pleased with the new and improved keyhole. Mistakes like this one are easily fixed so don’t throw in the towel if this happens to you!
Keep the keyhole open or stitch it closed at the top. Decisions, decisions!
By Auria, Sample Garment Sewer @ CJ Patterns Studio.
Fabrics from the Upcoming 2010 Fall Collection
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