In Studio Sample Maker
Ruffle Neck Top
(Using Pattern #1025: BaseWear Two)
This top was created by making a few basic design changes to the Top from Christine’s classic BaseWear Two Pattern (#1025). Designers often start with a very basic pattern, such as this one, and by modifying necklines, sleeve details, or by adding embellishments create something completely new and all their own. The purple fabric of the bands and ruffle is cotton/lycra/rayon blend #735, and the gray fabric # 736 also a cotton/lycra/rayon blend from the upcoming Fall 2010 Fabric Collection. I also paired these two fabrics in a previous project, the Keyhole Top.
First, I dropped the neckline. It is better to do this by redrawing the neckline on the sample fabric or pattern piece while it is against the intended wearer. In this case I pinned the pattern piece onto this dress form and marked a line that I felt would be the most complimentary.
Pictured right, I lined up the shoulder seams and continued my new neckline to the back pattern piece. A lower neckline in a woven fabric will almost always gape if no adjustment is made. The beauty of working with knits in this instance is that the smaller band, when stretched to fit the larger neck hole, will pull in whatever gaping that occurs. You do not want the make the difference between the two too drastic. This will cause on obvious pulling of the fabric. On the other hand, perhaps it might be an interesting design detail. Don’t be afraid to experiment.
Pictured above you can see the thought process behind the final design. I decided I liked the single row of ruffles. I did not continue the ruffle to the back so that it would not create any lumps if worn under a cardigan or jacket. 
A good gather is created by either cutting a strip of fabric between 2 and 2.5 times longer than the piece it is being added to. The amount of fullness is completely up to you. The knit might curl up on the edges if you cut it on the crosswise grain so to avoid this, it should be cut on grain in line with the selvage.
I also modified the sleeve length to hit mid-bicep (shown to right) and added a band to the end here as well for continuity.
To make the sleeve fit tighter around the bicep I tapered in the side seam and trimmed away the excess. The band, when added to the end of the sleeve can also be cut slightly smaller or the same measurement.
You can get more mileage out of your basic patterns by tracing them out on some pattern making paper. After just a few tweaks, you can have a completely different top and get a taste of the designing process. The possibilities are endless.
By Auria, Sample Garment Sewer @ CJ Patterns Studio.
Fabrics from the Upcoming 2010 Fall Collection
