InStudio Sample Maker
Wrap Top with Cuffed Sleeves
Alteration to the Ruffle Top - #419
Fabric is from the Late July group of the Transition to Fall 2011 Colleciton, Colorful Flowers #898, a rayon/lycra blend. This top was created with some alterations to the Ruffle Top pattern #419. We shortened and tapered the sleeves to just above elbow length, borrowed the cuff sleeve detail from the Wrap Dress #526, omitted the ruffle detail from around the neck and finished the neckline by lining the bodice.
If the neckline is a little low for your taste, try our simple neckline alteration to bring the neckline higher. http://www.cjpatterns.com/documents/WrapNecklineAlterationArticle.pdf
First, determine the desired length of the bodice and sleeves. The cuff from the Wrap Dress is meant to fit around the wrist and since the arm at elbow level is usually bigger around, you will need to add some width to the vertical seams of the cuffs. About an inch to both sides should do it. If the addition to the seams is too much, you can correct by turning them inside out again and using a greater seam allowance or making a larger overlap.
Cut out the pattern pieces leaving out the ruffle but adding in additional lining bodice pieces the appropriate weight and stretch for use with your fashion fabric. For this project, we used our stretch lining fabric Night Bird #L457, a Poly/Rayon/Lycra blend. AFTER this was constructed, I determined that the lining needs to be shortened. It should be just long enough to completely cover the bust and extend 2 or 3 inches beyond. If you do not shorten the lining, in the 
front, you will have 4 layers of fabric in your hem. No worries about the lining riding up because it will be secured in the side seams.
Attach the lining shoulder seams and the fashion fabric shoulder seams separately.
Sew the two units together at the neckline. =>
Press, turn then press again.
Make sure the fabric is lying nice and flat then secure the fashion fabric and the lining fabric layers together using a single needle machine within the seam allowances on the sides. This will take the frustration out of trying to sew these four layers together at the side seams. (The fabrics should line up edge to edge but I extended it so you could see I am only joining the layer of fashion fabric to the lining piece directly underneath it wrong side to wrong side).
Serge the armhole edge securing the lining and fashion fabrics together without trimming away any fabric. You will need the seam allowance to attach the sleeves.
Follow steps 7-9 in the pattern instructions.
Try on the top and determine if you would like a more tapered fit in the sleeve. Mark and make the adjustment on both sides stopping at a zero point at the armpit.
Construct the cuff units using a ¼ seam allowance. Turn and press. (pictured at right)
Mark the midpoint of the back of the sleeve. This is what the under lap should line up with. The cuff should under lap on each side.
As mentioned above, test the cuff fit into the sleeve at elbow length and make whatever necessary adjustments needed for it to fit in nicely. The cuff should overlap at least ½ inch.
Hem the bodice.
By Auria, Sample Garment Sewer @ CJ Patterns Studio.
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