Ruched Skirt (6 Gore)
No Pattern Necessary!
The fabric used for this skirt is a black rayon/lycra blend. The rayon has a silky smooth feel and has an excellent drape for this project. This fabric is 60” wide and I used about 2 yards. The skirt is self lined with a 4 ½ inch waistband. As long as the length of the gores you cut out do not exceed 33 inches, you should have enough fabric to draft all of the necessary pieces. (6 gores, lining and waistband)
Materials needed: chalk, ruler, scissors, 3/8 elastic, 2 ½ yards of 60” wide fabric that has both lengthwise and crosswise stretch.
Step 1: Determine desired length. I measured from the top of my pelvic bone to the point I wanted my hem and came up with 26”. This is the length you will cut 6 strips of the elastic.
Step 2: Measure around the fullest part of your hip, then divide the measurement by 6. This is the width of the 6 strips of fabric you will cut. The length should be 25% longer than the strips of elastic. The elastic will pull up the excess fabric to create the ruching detail and bring the fabric up to the desired length.
Step 3: Lay out the fabric and, using chalk and a ruler, mark the cutting lines for the gores onto the fabric on the crosswise grain. In other words, the vertical seams of the skirt are marked on the crosswise grain of the fabric. Do not worry about adding seam allowances because you want this stretchy fabric to fit snugly around the body.
Step 4: Serge the gores together using ¼ inch seam allowance.
Step 5: Serge a small bit of the elastic in place at one end of the skirt. Feed elastic through so that the edge is caught into the stitching but not cut. Line the edge of the fabric with the edge of the plate and the elastic is aligned with the marking of the serger foot that signifies the point at which the stitches are securing but not cutting the edge it is lined up with. This may take a little practice so take a moment and try it on some scraps.
Once you have secured a small bit of the elastic into the seam with the stitching, stretch the elastic so it meets evenly with the bottom edge of the skirt. Keep one hand holding the bottom edge of the elastic and fabric and with the other hand, secure this stretch half way between the top and bottom. Let go of the bottom and pass over the hand holding the elastic at the midpoint to secure it closer the serger. Serge until the point you are securing in place with your hands reaches the serger foot. Keep stretching the elastic all the way to the bottom and repeating this motion each time your hand gets to the serger foot.
Step 6: Measure the circumference of this ruched tube you have created and with the other side of the fabric remaining after the gores were cut, make the lining. Use the circumference measurement of the ruched outer skirt plus ½ inch. This extra ½ inch allows for ¼ seam allowance when the vertical seam is constructed.
Step 7: Attach the lining to whichever end you have designated as the bottom, right side to right side and serge. The vertical seam of the lining is lined up directly in the middle of one of the gores. Which gore does not matter, since they should all be balanced.
Step 8: Line up the top edges of skirt and lining making sure that the lining has not twisted and is straight from bottom to top. Serge the top edges together wrong side to wrong side careful not to trim away any fabric.
Step 9: Using your waistline measurement minus 4 inches for the length and 8 ½ inches as the width, cut the waistband out of the remaining fabric. Waistband width should follow the crosswise grain.
Step 10: Fold the waistband lengthwise then serge not trimming any fabric away. Fold along the width of the waistband and serge the edges together, not trimming any away.
Step 11: Serge the waistband onto the skirt using the seam of the waistband and the seam of the lining as a guide to line the pieces together using a ¼ inch seam allowance. Stretch the band to fit the skirt edge.
By Auria, Sample Garment Sewer @ CJ Patterns Studio.