Your favorite super-simple relaxed jogger pants sewing pattern doesn't have a side seam, but you want pockets in them. You can easily adapt a slash pocket into a dart to create roomy pockets in your jogger pants sewing pattern with a few simple steps.
1) Grab a jogger pants pattern (we're using the Christine Jonson Sewing Patterns Cuff Pant with leg width modifications shown below)
2) Grab a slash pocket pattern - a slash pocket is one that has an angled front, a longer back pocket piece and a front pocket piece with an angle on it. The back pocket piece becomes the new side seam
3) A ruler or the Cuff Pants pattern (link below)
A slash pocket from a sewing pattern (any slash pocket will work. The Cuff Pant pattern has one in it.) This includes a back pocket and a front pocket piece. A side seam pocket will only have ONE pattern piece, this is not the right style.
Mark the side seam on your pants by lining up CF and CB seams and folding the pattern at the side seam. Draw a shaped dart (see illustration).
Watch the 15-minute how-to video, including how the jogger looks on our Customer Experience Evangelist, Ann (CJP size 12)
Your dart should be 3" longer than your pocket opening, so lay your pocket down on your pant or skirt pattern, line up the waist edges of both pocket and pants and mark a point 3" down from the bottom of where the pocket attaches.
- Cut your shaped dart out of your pants pattern
- Assemble the pocket as directed by your sewing pattern, sewing the slash side first,
- Attachthe pocket pieces together around the curved edge,
- Sew the bottom leg of the dart below the pocket
- Voila! You've got a great pocket where your pattern had none before!
Making the Cuff Pant in to skinny jogger pants:
- Lay the pattern piece out flat.
- Trace the pattern piece.
- Using a ruler, starting at the crotch seam, draw an angle down to about 3" above the cuff, about 2" in from the side seam. Straighten the angle to go straight down (this will make the cuff and/or casing easier to sew) to the bottom of the pattern.
- Cut and sew the pants according to directions if you want to use the cuff version.
- If you want to use cased elastic hems, fold the hem under as directed for the cuff, and sew one row of casing 1/2", leaving an opening to thread elastic in. Thread elastic into the lower casing, leaving it loose enough so the pants hug the ankle but don't bind up when you sit and stand. Stitch the casing closed. Sew a second row of casing stitches, leaving an opening, and insert that elastic in, sewing the casing closed.
Cropping the Cuff Pant to a wide cropped pant:
- Measure your inseam to your lower calf (below the widest part of your calf but several inches above your ankle)
- Transfer that measurement to your pants pattern as your finished hem length
- Draw a line 1.5" below that mark to create your cropped cut for the new hem
- Sew the pants as usual, edge serge, press up the new hem 1.5" and topstitch from the right side.