How to create pin tucks in cropped or long wide leg linen pants
The Christine Jonson Taper and Wide Leg Pant 824 is a great canvas for embellishment. Designed for knits, but easily adapted to woven fabrics, the 824 pattern in the wide-leg pant is a great canvas for embellishment or alteration.
In the example pant, a wide leg hemp/linen rough weave fabric, Christine has straightened the wide leg pant from knee to hem, added length and created an easy series of wide tucks to add some visual interest to the pants. She’s also adapted this to a woven fabric and added a suede tie for the drawstring.
Let’s break down the EASY pattern hacks to create designer-inspired wide leg pants out of a woven fabric using the Wide Leg Pant 824:
1) When laying out the pattern, grab chalk or a sliver of soap and trace the pants pattern on your fabric. Using standard kids’ chalk or soap means the marks will wash out. Using other kinds of marking chalk might leave these on the fabric, so be sure the fabric is right-side-in and you’re drawing on the wrong side of the fabric.
2) Measure from your waist to your knees. Measure the pattern and straighten the hem line from knee to hem so it falls straight from knee length to the floor. Add 4” to 6” to the bottom of the hem for the tuck spacing.
3) Straighten the waistline so the pants go straight up from the hip – removing the hip curve. This will ensure they slide over your hips when made from a woven fabric. If you’re using a knit, you can skip this step. The pants are designed with a hip curve but require stretch to slide the pants over your hips.
4) Construct the pants as usual, leaving the legs unhemmed for the moment
5) Starting about 3” from the hem mark, make a mark with chalk where your first (lower) tuck will be. Measure up 2” to the next tuck and 2” again. This will create ¼” tucks about 1.5” apart - you can adjust this if you want wider spaces between tucks or wider tucks. Each tuck will take up 2 “lengths” of the tuck – e.g. ¼” tucks take up ½” of space and ½” tucks take up 1” of space.
6) Sewing the tucks is easy – simply fold the pant leg inside itself (wrong sides together and stitch ¼” away from the folded edge. Fold the pants out and make the next tuck by folding in at the next mark, stitching and then unfolding. Press the tucks down.
7) Hem the pants to your desired length.
8) Fold over the waistband casing and press. Unfold the casing. On the right side of the pants below the pressed fold, mark a spot to add a small buttonhole (you can do one buttonhole, or two, or even use grommets here.) Mark these and sew them in place. These will be your drawstring holes. Be sure to make the holes big enough that your desired drawstring material can be threaded inside.
9) Fold the casing back under, fold the raw edge under 3/8” and stitch the casing down. Thread a length of suede cord, soutache cord, ribbon, leather or other decorative cording in through your buttonholes. We recommend a threading tool but you can also use a small safety pin.
10) Done! Enjoy your new designer wide-leg pants!