23 Tips for Sewing Knit Fabrics For Professional Results
Sewing With Cotton/LYCRA Knits successfully
by Christine Jonson
- Loosen tension on bobbin
- Use a 4.0 Schmetz double needle for hems
- Do not over stretch fabric while serging
- Use woven fusible Tricot interfacing only
- Iron only after garment is serged together
- Iron all seams and edges flat
- Turn facings in, press, and pin down
- Fold hems up, press and pin
- Double needle hems and facings Isee #2)
- Stitch on right side of fabric, using sense of touch to follow edge
- Use cording for all buttonholes on stretch fabrics. Follow machines’ instructions and use the buttonhole foot with the little tab on the back to hold the string. White kitchen string is fine.
- Stretch elastic and waistbands evenly
- Test quality of stitches often
- Double needle stitches should look like railroad tracks on the right side
- Double needle stitches should look like even zigzag stitches on the wrong side
- When fabric is stretched, the stitches should not break, feel tight or pop out
- Recheck tension often
- Always stitch a straight topstitch line. Do not follow a crooked facing or hem
- When serging use a 5/8” seam allowance
- When edging use a ¼” seam allowance
- A set in sleeve with a cap requires slowly lifting the presser foot to ease the curve of sleeve head into the armhole. Sew slowly
- When serging two pieces of fabric together it is important to know they are being fed evenly under the presser foot. After sewing the first few inches, go to the bottom edge and check they are even.
- Never topstitch to the very end of a topstitch seam. End one or two stitches away to stop the fabric from being pulled out of shape.
Having trouble hemming knit fabrics? Check out our Hem Options for Knit Fabrics for some great tips on how to sew professional-looking knit hems.