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Sew a relaxed hoodie with inset panels, empire waist shaping

Ann Siegle

Sew a relaxed hoodie jacket with inset panels and empire waist shaping to wear over skinny pants, leggings or a slim midi skirt for fall / winter / spring.

Pattern Mix Relaxed Hoodie:

Using the Christine Jonson Patterns Inset Jacket and the contrast-lined hood from the Christine Jonson Travel Trio Two, mix these two patterns and lengthen the Inset Jacket to craft a fun, relaxed hoodie with gentle shape and fun details.

Our inspiration found online shows a full gathered elastic waist, but the inset jacket uses pleats along the inset only. Instead of pleating the section of the jacket, sew rows of gathering stitches and gather this section on. If you want the exposed serger edges, you can edge-serge with a narrow 3-thread serge along the vertical and the horizontal seams, turning the interior corner with a tight turn on your serger as you go. Then, apply the insets to the inside, topstitching down to expose the serger edges of the jacket body.

Mix up your hoodie by using a contrast print from knit scraps on the inside of the hood, and add tassels to the front. You can choose to leave the inset jacket ties OR you can insert a zipper in the front. If you insert a zipper, you will need to insert it before you add the facing to the inset panels.

You can extend the sleeves on the hoodie down to wrist length and add a cuff, narrowing the sleeve to the hem as shown in the example.

Add tassels to the zipper pull as shown.

Our inspiration, taken from the internet, shows a gathered inset panel with exposed edges, a hood with contrast lining and long sleeves.

Our inspiration, taken from the internet, shows a gathered inset panel with exposed edges, a hood with contrast lining and long sleeves.

Inset Jacket 115
18.05
Quantity:
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Travel Trio Two 331
20.05
Quantity:
Add To Cart