Selecting the right fabrics and right size for your Christine Jonson Jackets
Jacket Part One: Overview: http://www.cjpatterns.com/blog/2017/1/4/sew-a-knit-blazer-or-unlined-jacket-sew-along-part-one?rq=jacket
Jacket Part Two: Selecting fabrics & size: http://www.cjpatterns.com/blog/2017/1/14/sew-a-knit-blazer-or-unlined-jacket-sew-along-part-2?rq=jacket
Jacket Part Three: Cutting, Serging Darts: http://www.cjpatterns.com/blog/2017/1/27/serging-darts-in-knit-tops-and-jackets?rq=jacket
Jacket Part Four: Sewing & finishing http://www.cjpatterns.com/blog/2016/1/26/how-to-clean-finish-the-interior-of-an-unlined-jacket-or-coat?rq=jacket
Jacket Part Five: Buttons and buttonholes http://www.cjpatterns.com/blog/2017/2/10/how-to-choose-and-place-buttons-on-a-knit-blazer-or-jacket?rq=jacket
Jacket Part Six: Princess Jacket in Ponte http://www.cjpatterns.com/blog/2015/3/23/making-the-double-collar-princess-jacket-using-black-double-knit-or-ponte-knit?rq=jacket
Bonus:Jacket styles: http://www.cjpatterns.com/blog/2016/1/26/we-love-jackets-diy-a-perfect-blazer-sew-your-own-jackets-easily?rq=jacket
The Fitted Jacket:
The Fitted Jacket is designed for stretch knits and non-stretch knits. If you’re using a non-stretch knit, use the Perfect Sizing Worksheet to determine your perfect size for this jacket. In every pattern envelope you will see an Ease and Measurement Charts included in your pattern (and the Perfect Sizing Worksheet PDF) that covers the exact tissue pattern measurements. The Perfect Sizing Worksheet also has a companion Excel spreadsheet version if you don’t want to do the math yourself.
Making this jacket in a cotton/lycra knit, which is the recommended fabric, is what we’ll cover in the Sew Along. The pattern is designed to factor in a lot of steam heat that will shrink the jacket as you press and sew it, so you will not need to preshrink cotton/lycra jacket fabric first.
If you are between sizes, this jacket is close fitting and you should use a larger size. If you are using a woven fabric, also go up in size according to the Perfect Sizing Worksheet.
Good sources for cotton/lycra include Spandexhouse in New York City (spandexhouse.com). Don’t skimp on fabric! You will have this jacket for decades. Using $3 a yard fabric will make you very unhappy when you wash it and it pills on the first load.
For this jacket, decide on your perfect size using the Perfect Sizing Worksheet and begin cutting your pattern out of your tissue. You may also trace this pattern if you're unsure of sizing. Because this jacket is made in a knit, fit will be much easier as there is give and stretch in it.
The Double Collar Princess Jacket
This semi-fitted shapely jacket has length and collar variations that you can play with. The jacket in it’s long length is sweater-coat length, and the hip length is a slightly longer jacket that rests at the lower hip.
You can shorten further to have it rest at the high hip if you like. You can even omit the collar and make it a Chanel-style jewel neckline jacket if you wish. We’ll show how we are making a traditional hand-quilted couture version of the Princess Jacket (although we will not cover those techniques in this sew along, since we want you to finish this jacket while you still want to wear it.
This jacket can be made in a variety of fabrics including linens, wools and coating fabrics! Woven fabrics with substance and body highlight the shape of this jacket. Suit and jacket weight woven fabrics including, but not limited to, linen, cotton, wool, wool blends, LYCRA-blend wovens, crepe, and home-dec fabrics.
This is a close fitting jacket, so if you’re between sizes go up a size.
For this pattern, decide on your perfect size and length. Go into your own closet and try on all of your jackets (or to a store that carries professional work wear such as JCrew, Banana Republic, White House Black Market, Nordstrom, or Ann Taylor.) Decide the perfect length on your own body and measure the jacket from the center back of the jacket's neckline below the collar (from the collar join seam at the neck) to the hem.