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Filtering by Tag: sew with knits

Sewing knit hems with a three-thread serger edge

Christine Jonson Patterns

Valentine's Day One Seam Wrap

Super quick and easy 3-thread edge serge finish

By: Christine Jonson

 

This technique works especially well for light to medium weight sweater knits where a traditional hem is not best. I love this Missoni-ish fabric that is in my current collection, and thought it would be the perfect Valentine's Day topper in the reds and pink colorway. This wrap (One Seam Wrap from #1117) has only one seam that needs to be stitched for the underarm/sleeve. Once that is sewn the rest of the work is the edge stitching or rolled hem.

Here's what you need:
3 cones of thread
1/8" bias fusible seam tape
Rolled hem foot and plate

The Outfit...

I paired the One Seam Wrap with my Ruched Skirt(free pattern in the tips & how-to) made with black rayon jersey and the Keyhole Top (sleeveless and without keyhole) made with a wonderful textured knit from my stash.

Since I want this for Valentine's Day I chose a variety of red and pink threads to choose from then made my decision.

I changed the plate and foot on my serger for a rolled hem and did a few test samples to achieve the perfect stitch.

This is my Brother serger which I bought in 1980! I love it and it has given me years of excellent performance.

I cut the 1/4" bias tape in half because I only need it to be as wide at the rolled edge and don't want it to show on the wrong side. You can use fusible interfacing cut on the bias for this step as well.

Carefully press the bias tape along the edge of the wrap on the wrong side.

Press this on all the way around.

Edge serge on the right side of the fabric without cutting any fabric off. I flip the knife up and out of the way to be sure.

I control how thick the thread is on the edge of the fabric by pulling it slightly with my left hand as I guide the fabric with both hands.

Topstitching on stretch knit fabrics

Christine Jonson Patterns

by Christine Jonson

After researching for the Claire McCardell story I have a renewed interest in topstitching. Not only do I like the way topstitching looks, I like that it replaces hand hemming. Using topstitching to hold down facings, bring interest to important seams and keep the inside of a garment neat appeals to me. I have years of experience topstitching stretch fabrics with matching thread but now I find that I want to use contrasting thread and thick thread and yarn-like thread to add a new dimension to my garments.

Topstitching has to be perfect. You need to choose the right thread, needles and presser feet if you want a professional look

Thread

Silk thread is an excellent choice for topstitching and comes in a zillion colors and weights. My Mom and I always used silk buttonhole twist for topstitching our Ultra Suede garments. Machine embroidery thread, metallic thread and various other pearl cotton and rayon threads are great too. Choosing the right thread for the fabric is the key. Decide the effect that you want to create and choose the thread that will provide it.

Silk twist is recommended for fabrics that will be dry cleaned, such as silks or wools. Polyester twist wrapped in cotton is a nice alternative because it is machine washable and has the smooth, lustrous look of silk. When using regular thread you can achieve a similar look by threading 2 threads through the machine needle. Check the yardage on the spools so you’ll be sure to have enough to finish your project.

 

Needles

Topstitching needles have a larger eye, longer groove and sharper point than standard machine needle. They sew better with heavier threads and are less likely to produce skipped stitches and frayed thread. They work best when using a standard thread in the bobbin.

Sharp needles are best for topstitching tightly woven fabrics such as microfibers, woven silks and other dense fabrics.

Denim needles are very sharp and penetrate twill fabrics leaving a straight topstitch instead of stitches that slip between the fibers.

Double needles allow two rows of topstitching at once. They are available in a variety of styles and widths between the needles. The wider the space is between the needles the more “sportswear” the look. Be sure to change your machine foot plate to allow for the width of the needles.

Having a variety of these needles on hand will make topstitching easier for you. As always, the right tool for the job!

 

Presser Feet

Presser feet for topstitching come two ways. There are feet for straight stitching only and those designed for zigzag as well as straight stitching. Straight-stitch-only feet have a smaller hole for the needle and keep the fabric more stable. They are used in conjunction with a straight stitch soleplate.

Zigzag presser feet require a wide hole soleplate that allows you to change needle positions. This is handy for double needle, triple needle, zigzag topstitching and decorative stitches. Using the different needle positions allows you to stitch on either side of a seam using the center mark on the foot as your guide. A Teflon foot is great for topstitching suede and leather.

Good Ideas for Professional-looking knit topstitching

  • Increase your stitch length to about 6 to 8 stitches per inch and loosen the top tension slightly.
  • For the look of a broken line of topstitching use a darker thread on the bobbin.
  • Topstitch on the side of the garment that will be visible.
  •  Never backstitch when topstitching.
  • With a notched collar break the stitching at the lapel roll line. To tie off the threads at this point, pull them up to the underside and tie a square knot close to the garment. Then thread a needle with the ends and slip them between the fabric layers. Clip the threads close to the garment and they will disappear!
  • Two rows of stitching, one at the edge and the other ¼” from the edge gives a sporty look.
  • Multiple rows of topstitching adds a dressier look.
  • Buttons should not cover the topstitching line when a garment is buttoned.
  • Be sure that you are happy with all construction stitching and pressing before you begin topstitching.
  • Purchase special topstitching tape that gives specific guidelines or use transparent tape as a guide, just don’t stitch through it!
  • Test your stitches on scraps of fabric that are the same as your garment.
  • Use a walking foot to maintain even stitches when going over various thicknesses.
  • If you are topstitching a stress seam on a stretch fabric (close fitting, neck lines, narrow skirt hems etc.) you will need to use a double needle to allow for stretch and recovery. If not, you are free to use rows of single needle stitching on stretch fabrics.

 

 

 

 

 

Top tips for sewing knit fabrics

Christine Jonson Patterns

23 Tips for Sewing Knit Fabrics For Professional Results

SewingStretchKnitFabrics

Sewing With Cotton/LYCRA Knits successfully

by Christine Jonson

  1. Loosen tension on bobbin
  2. Use a 4.0 Schmetz double needle for hems
  3. Do not over stretch fabric while serging
  4. Use woven fusible Tricot interfacing only
  5. Iron only after garment is serged together
  6. Iron all seams and edges flat
  7. Turn facings in, press, and pin down
  8. Fold hems up, press and pin
  9. Double needle hems and facings Isee #2)
  10. Stitch on right side of fabric, using sense of touch to follow edge
  11. Use cording for all buttonholes on stretch fabrics. Follow machines’ instructions and use the buttonhole foot with the little tab on the back to hold the string. White kitchen string is fine.
  12. Stretch elastic and waistbands evenly
  13. Test quality of stitches often
  14. Double needle stitches should look like railroad tracks on the right side
  15. Double needle stitches should look like even zigzag stitches on the wrong side
  16. When fabric is stretched, the stitches should not break, feel tight or pop out
  17. Recheck tension often
  18. Always stitch a straight topstitch line. Do not follow a crooked facing or hem
  19. When serging use a 5/8” seam allowance
  20. When edging use a ¼” seam allowance
  21. A set in sleeve with a cap requires slowly lifting the presser foot to ease the curve of sleeve head into the armhole. Sew slowly
  22. When serging two pieces of fabric together it is important to know they are being fed evenly under the presser foot. After sewing the first few inches, go to the bottom edge and check they are even.
  23. Never topstitch to the very end of a topstitch seam. End one or two stitches away to stop the fabric from being pulled out of shape.

Having trouble hemming knit fabrics? Check out our Hem Options for Knit Fabrics for some great tips on how to sew professional-looking knit hems.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Learn to Sew an easy knit dress! On-demand video sew along

Christine Jonson Patterns

Dresses are your easiest go-to outfit. Pull one out of your closet, put it on, add some shoes and you're all set!  They're great in the summer sleeveless or short sleeved with your favorite sandals, in the fall and winter with 3/4 and long sleeves, leggings and boots.

Your go-to dress all year round! Make a bunch, they're so easy to sew.

Your go-to dress all year round! Make a bunch, they're so easy to sew.

In this video sew-along, join Ann Siegle as she sews the incredibly easy Christine Jonson A-Line Dress downloadable pattern. The A-line dress is a just above-the-knee dress that fits close and smooth through the upper chest and gracefully flares to an A-line at the hem. It's a bit swingy and the A-line shape covers a multitude of sins involving brownies (not that we're saying anything bad about brownies.)

 

Prepare your pattern:

This is a downloadable pattern, so after purchase, download the pattern and print it out according to the pattern instructions. Check to be sure the PDF is set to print actual size in your print settings.

This dress features two front pattern pieces - one, with a pieced inset has a full upper chest piece, the diagonal inset and a lower dress piece. The front without the diagonal accent is a standard cut-on-fold dress front. The back is a cut-on-fold dress back. The sleeves have three cut lines, for cap sleeves, 3/4 sleeves and a long, slightly flared sleeve that is very flattering. Of course, you can leave the sleeves off entirely, as the high armscye is both high enough in sleeveless and offers a great range of movement in the sleeved versions.

Select your fabric:

I chose the short cap sleeve in a red rayon/lycra jersey with some remnants of striped fabric for the inset and a collar neckband (not included in the pattern, but included in this Sew Along!)

Construct the Inset:

Video: Sewing the inset:

Following the pattern instructions, sew the inset to the top front and bottom front. A TIP: Mark the right sides of your fabric with a pin, and mark the TOP (single notch) and BOTTOM (double notch) of the right side of the inset piece. Then, lay the pieces flat with the inset positioned as it will be when sewn. This way, you won't inadvertently sew the inset incorrectly (!)

Sew the shoulder seams, sleeves and side seams as per the pattern instructions. Do not sew the neckline yet.

Making a foldover band collar:

This neat tip we got from the internet from another indie pattern designer we love (yep, we sew other people's patterns too - but only if they are good ones!)

Video: Sewing the band collar (three steps)

Then, hem the dress as per the pattern instructions. If you need help with how to hem knits, see our article HERE about how to hem knit fabrics.

Styling your A-line dress for all seasons

We love the late summer/early fall transition season, but it can be challenging.  Of course, since you can sew this dress in just over an hour (if you do the 'fancy' inset and banded neckline version that we show), you can have as many as your summer-to-fall wardrobe desires!

Short sleeved dresses are perfect for days when you leave your house in a sweater and return in sunglasses! The cap sleeve of the A-line dress is a perfect just-small-enough sleeve.

Sleeveless dresses can go both casual and dressy - a knee-length sleeveless dress in a black ITY is a wonderful work-to-dinner dress that travels well (with a business suit jacket.) Make it in a floral and it's a fun party dress that you'll wear all week, too. Try stripes for a fun casual weekend look with sneakers and a denim jacket.

Three-quarter sleeves bridge the gap between summer and fall. A heather gray rayon/lycra knit 3/4 sleeve dress looks great over leather boots and a under puffy vest for a just-cool-enough day.

Long slightly flared sleeves on the A-line dress are a winter essential. We love dresses with leggings or tights and boots. This dress looks great in a waffle or sweatshirt fabric for casual weekends, or in a ponte knit for work. You can dig out the faux fur vest for casual days.

Best of all, this dress is crazy-simple to sew. The contrast diagonal inset is a cinch to sew and offers a whole host of fun design ideas - black ponte with stretch snakeskin, solid dress with striped inset. A striped dress with a coordinating floral inset and contrast solid sleeves.

 

Plus size sewing with knits

Christine Jonson Patterns

Christine Jonson Designs Sizing for the Plus-Sized Woman
by Sarabeth Chambers

Reprinted from Life in the Little Black Dress

When I found Christine Jonson patterns I was very impressed with the simple style lines and straightforward construction.  I wanted to look like the drawings on the front of the patterns, so I bought them – all of them, to see what I could do. This was a bold choice for someone who is much larger than the patterns are designed for, and who has plenty of “big girl” figure flaws to hide.

Since then, I have made quite a few of Christine’s Patterns in much larger sizes than the patterns are designed for. I have found that sizing up exactly the difference in your measurements from the largest size works perfectly for most 100% cotton interlocks and LYCRA blend fabrics. For less stretchy the fabric, I add bigger seam allowances and spend a little extra time fitting the outfit after assembling it, so far, no problems.

I started with the Boyfriend Jacket and an inexpensive stretch woven that had previously been washed, my version of muslin. I used the measurements of the back of the pattern and found that I needed to add 7” to the bust, 8” to the waist, and 11” to the hip for the XL size to fit my body. I also wanted to add another inch because I was using a stretch woven instead of a knit. I found that the difference between the size medium (MD) and XL was 8” in the bust, 9” in the waist, and 8” in the hip. Just the differences I needed in the bust and waist, and a little small on the hip.

I traced the XL pattern lines on the fabric in chalk, including the line at the waist. As soon as I had the first piece traced, I went to each corner and moved the pattern piece so that the chalk tracings were lined up under the MD pattern lines and retraced the XL outline on the fabric around the corner. After I had completed re-tracing all the corners and curves, I connected the new lines smoothly for my new cutting line.

Please note that for the hip area, I re-traced by lining up the original chalk line under the small (SM) pattern lines to get the 12” difference I needed.

Once I had all the pattern pieces traced, I did a measurement check. I checked the length of the shoulder seam to my actual shoulder and the front and back shoulder-to-waist measurements. This verified that sizing the pattern up would still fit my body. I really didn’t have any changes to make, but I am kind of tall. I do this measurement check before I cut any fabric because I sew for different shapes of large women and waist length measurements are different for every body.

From that point on I followed the directions for construction without measuring or fitting until the jacket was complete. The pieces went together beautifully and the resulting jacket fit very well.
 

Boyfriend Jacket & Shell 311
18.05
Quantity:
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This method worked very well for the Tapered Pant, Shell, and Straight Shirt, 3 Tees and Swing Jacket. This method worked even better for the Fitted Jacket and Slit Skirt,
the two patterns that I really thought they were only for thin women.

I have a big tummy that prefers to stick out and pants just show it off even more. This leads to adding layers to hide it. I started wearing shirts untucked and big jackets to
hide it, but then I just looked bigger and bigger. I wanted to look as small as possible and very professional at work.

I made up the Slit Skirt in Christine’s Black Cotton/LYCRA expecting to have to wear it with something that covered me down to my crotch. But when I put it on and tucked in a white turtleneck, I looked like I had lost 20 pounds. (Note: A push up bra doesn't hurt this look at all) I wore the waistband flat to give a longer line and minimize
horizontal lines across my waist. Even when I walked around, my tummy was pretty well disguised no matter what length I made the skirt or what I tucked into it. (Knee
length out of ponte or Ottoman fabric is fabulous) That is when I made the fitted jacket to go with it for a professional look.

The Fitted Jacket is a big girl’s best friend. Whether you have a well-defined waist or not, you appear to have one. I decided that I like the feminine curvy look and started
making it in all different lengths and fabric weights. I made a coatdress, a short sleeve linen dress, a winter coat in polar fleece, a long fitted jacket, and a short, very
fitted zip-front jacket. The Fitted Jacket is very good in most any fabric and in whatever length you choose to make it. I like to interface the entire jacket if I am making
out of a real drapy fabric and want a more tailored look. This was the pattern that really inspired me to try different types of fabrics and pattern alterations.

Other surprisingly good looks for large ladies are: 

1) The 3 Tee’s pattern cut off at about the waistline and sewn to the top of the Slit Skirt waistband, just like the skirt is sewn to it.

2) The Straight Shirt cut off an inch or two above the waistline with the front slip stitched together and small darts that line up with the Pencil Skirt darts, sewn to the top of the Pencil Skirt. (Note: Add little extra ease to the Pencil Skirt and try it in a different color than the top, great for big hips) 

3) A Shell made out of the same fabric as the Slit Skirt or Cuff Pant, and tucked in, and worn under the Swing Jacket or Straight Shirt.

4) The Slit Skirt with a little walking ease added and the kick pleat removed, for a very feminine curvy look.

There is NOTHING frumpy or baggy about the clothes I wear now, or the clothes I make for other large ladies who can’t find nice business clothes to wear.

Finally, an important issue for big girls is undergarments and will a knit fabric hanging up on them, especially when used for the Slit and Pencil Skirts. I prefer cotton
undies and the skirts seem to hang over them without bunching up or sticking to them. I think that is why I am such a big fan of Cotton/LYCRA, Rayon/LYCRA,
Slinky and Ottoman.  I hate having to wear special undies and feeling uncomfortable, just to look good in the clothes over them. These fabrics do a lovely job of hiding all my
less than perfect lumps without making me look like I am wearing a large sack and the wrong underwear.

 

About Sarabeth:
I have made the Fitted Jacket, Shell, and Slit Skirt or Cuff Pant as a set for women with a bust measurement up to 68” and 70” hip, from 5’2” to 6’ tall, and with all
different body types and shapes. I am not a professional seamstress, nor have I been trained in anything remotely resembling design or pattern drafting. I just love sewing.