Jogger pants sewing pattern - inserting a slash pocket into a dart

Your favorite super-simple relaxed jogger pants sewing pattern doesn't have a side seam, but you want pockets in them. You can easily adapt a slash pocket into a dart to create roomy pockets in your jogger pants sewing pattern with a few simple steps.

 Easy pockets in a pair of pants that has no side seam!

Easy pockets in a pair of pants that has no side seam!

1) Grab a jogger pants pattern (we're using the Christine Jonson Sewing Patterns Cuff Pant with leg width modifications shown below)

2) Grab a slash pocket pattern - a slash pocket is one that has an angled front, a longer back pocket piece and a front pocket piece with an angle on it. The back pocket piece becomes the new side seam

3) A ruler or the Cuff Pants pattern (link below)

You'll need:

A slash pocket from a sewing pattern (any slash pocket will work. The Cuff Pant pattern has one in it.)  This includes a back pocket and a front pocket piece. A side seam pocket will only have ONE pattern piece, this is not the right style. 

Mark the side seam on your pants by lining up CF and CB seams and folding the pattern at the side seam. Draw a shaped dart (see illustration).

Watch the 15-minute how-to video, including how the jogger looks on our Customer Experience Evangelist, Ann (CJP size 12)

Your dart should be 3" longer than your pocket opening, so lay your pocket down on your pant or skirt pattern, line up the waist edges of both pocket and pants and mark a point 3" down from the bottom of where the pocket attaches.

  • Cut your shaped dart out of your pants pattern
  • Assemble the pocket as directed by your sewing pattern, sewing the slash side first,
  • Attachthe pocket pieces together around the curved edge,
  • Sew the bottom leg of the dart below the pocket
  • Voila! You've got a great pocket where your pattern had none before!


Making the Cuff Pant in to skinny jogger pants:

  • Lay the pattern piece out flat.
  • Trace the pattern piece.
  • Using a ruler, starting at the crotch seam, draw an angle down to about 3" above the cuff, about 2" in from the side seam. Straighten the angle to go straight down (this will make the cuff and/or casing easier to sew) to the bottom of the pattern. 
  • Cut and sew the pants according to directions if you want to use the cuff version. 
  • If you want to use cased elastic hems, fold the hem under as directed for the cuff, and sew one row of casing 1/2", leaving an opening to thread elastic in. Thread elastic into the lower casing, leaving it loose enough so the pants hug the ankle but don't bind up when you sit and stand. Stitch the casing closed. Sew a second row of casing stitches, leaving an opening, and insert that elastic in, sewing the casing closed. 
  • Done! 

Cropping the Cuff Pant to a wide cropped pant:

  • Measure your inseam to your lower calf (below the widest part of your calf but several inches above your ankle)
  • Transfer that measurement to your pants pattern as your finished hem length
  • Draw a line 1.5" below that mark to create your cropped cut for the new hem
  • Sew the pants as usual, edge serge, press up the new hem 1.5" and topstitch from the right side.
Cuff Pant 945
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Sew a Bateau Neck Sleeveless Reversible Tee Shirt

Sew a Bateau Neck Sleeveless Reversible Tee Shirt using the Keyhole Top (and Trouser Pant) Sewing Pattern

This tee is a classic! You can sew this beautifully fitting, EASY to sew, flattering tee in short cap sleeves, long sleeves, 3/4 sleeves and sleeveless versions. Make it in a stripe with 3/4 sleeves, or a fun print with cap sleeves, or go reversible and sleeveless with a solid and a print! 

There are ZERO hem finishes on this tee - the self lined bodice is sewn top and bottom and turned through either the armhole (if you're adding sleeves) or the sideseam (if you're making it reversible.) It's gorgeous, wider neckline is very flattering, and it's beautiful shaping and high hip length are designed for "untucked" wearing. You can lengthen this tee easily (and that's one of the pattern hacks we're making in our sew-along.)


June 1-14

Order the pattern here, get your fabric and cut your size as per the Perfect Sizing Worksheet and the pattern envelope. We recommend rayon/lycra or ITY stretch Lycra. You want a drapey fabric that is not too heavy to make this reversible tee. It’s very important both sides / fabrics are the same stretch/recovery and hand or feel, for best results. Print and solid pair well together, as do coordinating prints and stripes. See below for instructions on how the sew along works.

Stretch ruler: download and print one here (with instructions on how to use it.)

Calculate your size:  Download the Perfect Sizing Worksheet™ (paper PDF) or the Excel version.

June 1-6:

We cover how the sew along works, how to select the size for your tee, how to pair up the best fabrics for the best results for your tee and we'll cover the basic pattern hack (lengthening the tee) that we'll be doing. Our video on June 6 (archived here below) will show how the tee sews together and turns right side out. 

June 7-14:

We will be sewing our tee and discussing fit and construction techniques in the Christine Jonson Sewing Circle (private Facebook Group.)  Our June 13 live video will feature our completed tee(s) and styling ideas.

Selecting the right fabric and modifying the tee for your favorite length:


Construction video (including how to turn the reversible tee right side out!) This video shows the entire construction of the tee shirt including turning right side out.

June 20: styling options and our final tee! This video shows our completed tee shirt, options for making the tee single layer in heavier knits like French Terry, and creative fabric choices such as art panel prints. 


How it works: 

Join the Christine Jonson Patterns Facebook Group

Join the event in the pinned post to participate and see group posts

Sew your hoodie at home on your schedule, following along with videos that will be added to this blog post or LIVE on our Facebook page.

Post on the group with questions or progress photos

Post your finished photos when done!


How to create a short / cap sleeve flounce top

Create a short / cap sleeve flounce top by drafting a flounce using around-the-house items!

We're working with a simple, shapely tee shirt using the Travel Trio One Banded Neck Tee. I cut this one 2 sizes up for a slouchy look. This extends the upper shoulder out to a very teeny cap sleeve, but if you want your flounce to sit at the shoulder bone, simply trace off the larger size under the arm to the hem on each side and then cut your usual (if smaller) size around the armsceye and shoulder/neckline. 

  1. Measure around the arm openings from the side seam to the shoulder. Measure both front and back. A tip, turn your tape measure on its side to get an accurate measurement. This is the total circumference of your inner circle on the flounce
  2. I then drafted a flounce using two round plates - a saucer and a salad plate (you could use a saucer and a dinner plate.)  My saucer was 21" around, and my armsceye was 20" so I'll have a 1" overlap at the bottom (or I could choose to cut this off.) 
  3. Trace the larger of the two plates on paper. Then, lay the smaller of the two plates in the center (evenly), and trace that. The distance between inner and outer plates is the width of your flounce, less your seam allowance. 
  4. Cut through one side of your flounce, creating an opening in your circle. Cut the inner circle and the outer one. 
  5. Trace this onto your fabric with marking chalk, soap sliver or kids' chalk. Cut out the loop (looks like a doughnut) with a rotary cutter for a clean edge that won't ravel.
  6. You can choose to open up this flounce and attach it right sides to the armsceye as the pattern directs, treating it as a very tiny sleeve, or you can sew the tee's side and shoulder seams and then apply the flounce, overlapping the bottom edges. If you do this, gently curve the edge to meet the inner flounce, so your overlap is smooth and decorative. 
  7. Serge your flounce on
  8. That's it! 

On this tee, you can choose any neckline finish, including the standard band, a reverse-folded band, or a raw edge band, as I've done on my tee. The raw edge band is simply the standard band turned and stitched with the folded side, leaving the raw edge side up for an edgier look.

Embellish your tee or not! Heat Transfer Vinyl, a reverse applique, fabric paint, shibori or dip-dye, tie-dye or applique, it's up to you!

Here's our how-to video showing how to draw and shape the sleeve flounce:

The pattern we used:

Travel Trio One - 1204
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Pattern Hack: Crossover Sleeveless Maxi Dress from a Top Sewing Pattern

Pattern Hack for Beginners: Turning a Knit Top Pattern into a Dress using the Christine Jonson Patterns Tie Back Top

 We turned a tie-back top into an awesome maxi dress with just a simple pattern hack.

We turned a tie-back top into an awesome maxi dress with just a simple pattern hack.

 You’ll use just 3 pattern pieces to hack this top into a stunning sleeveless maxi dress.

You’ll use just 3 pattern pieces to hack this top into a stunning sleeveless maxi dress.

We'll be creating a sleeveless maxi dress with a front crossover wrap but without back ties using the Tie Back Top sewing pattern. Because this pattern is fully lined in the bodice, we can make it sleeveless and still enjoy a completely finished armhole edge AND crossover wrap neck edge! EASY sewing with foolproof results. 

  1. Trace your Tie Back Top back and lower bodice pattern pieces onto paper. Cut them out. 
  2.  Lay the lower bodice on top of the back and line up the hemlines
  3.  Mark on the Back pattern piece where the bodice attaches (minus 5/8" for the bodice seam allowance) Use the DOT on the pattern for the lower bodice as your minus 5/8" mark. 
  4.  Decide how long your dress should be (you can go all the way to the floor if you want!) Measure down from center back neck of the back pattern piece to mark your back hemline depth based on your preferred measurements. Draw a new hemline across at this mark. For my maxi dress, I used 57" inches, the distance from my back neck to the floor on me. But you can go any length you want, from above knee to maxi. 
  5.  Mark out about 3-5" from the top's side seam and draw a new line from the hemline up to the top at the widest point of the notch on the pattern side seam. This will be the new width of the dress at the hem, making an A-line shape. The longer you go, the wider the dress will need to be. At maxi-length, you'll be adding more to the width of the back at the hem (about 11" wider than the top is). We'll show this on the video (and we'll be making an awesome sleeveless maxi-dress version of this dress/top.) I used 20" total as my width for the back pattern piece, as I measured a RTW maxi with an 80" circumference. Since the back pattern piece is 1/4 of the entire maxi, 20" x 4 = 80".  I drew a line from the 20" wide hemline up to the notch on the top pattern's side seam to create my lower dress shape.
  6. Make the lower bodice the same length, by measuring from the back mark that you made down to the back hem. Make your bodice this length to match up with the back pattern piece. Remember, the bodice is shorter than the back, because it attaches under the bust to the upper bodice pieces. 
  7. Cut the dress pieces out: you will be cutting an original back (top length) out of your lining fabric, two front upper bodices out of lining and then a fashion fabric back, a fashion fabric lower bodice, two fashion fabric upper bodices. 
  8. At step 9, of the pattern sewing instructions, you will NOT be sewing the bottom hem closed as per the instructions. 
  9.  If you want to omit the ties on the back of the dress, simply wrap the front ties across and secure them to the side seams BEFORE you sew the side seams. Pin and try on your dress to determine your best fit before you sew. 
  10. Sew the Tie Back Dress exactly as the Tie Back Blouse EXCEPT for the sleeveless modification, sewing the armholes before you turn it right side out
  11.  If you're omitting sleeves, sew the armholes at step 11 of the sewing instructions, and leave an opening in the side seam under one arm for turning. I recommend you mark the opening with a safety pin so you don't accidentally sew your opening closed during construction. 

Trace your back pattern piece onto paper


Using the dot on the lower bodice and matching up the bottom hem of the original top pattern, you can calculate the length of the new lower bodice.



Conmect your hem line to the sideseam at the sideseam notch.


The bodice is shorter than the back because it attaches under the bust. 

 Baby got...back! This dress is super flattering on curves!

Baby got...back! This dress is super flattering on curves!


The Tie Back Top is an EASY pattern to sew and hack - you'll use just 3 pattern pieces for this maxi-dress hack to create a beautiful summer dress that is dressy enough for a summer wedding, and casual enough for beach and pool wear. 

Tie Back Top 107
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Pattern Hack: Create a long hooded duster cardigan from an existing sewing pattern

Create your own long hooded duster cardigan from an existing sewing pattern! We are going to do an easy modification of the open cardigan-style reversible hoodie pattern from Travel Trio Two to create a long, reversible hooded duster cardigan. This is a beginner-level pattern hack and a great way to get used to modifying patterns that you already have! Plus, we're going to add patch pockets to BOTH sides of the cardigan, because, pockets!

The pattern:

Travel Trio Two Hoodie: a hip-length A-line open front hoodie with neck button/loop closure. Fully lined and reversible. 

The hack:

Lengthen the hoodie to duster length. Check that both front and back pattern pieces retain their hem curve AND are the same length along the sideseams. We'll draft a pocket pattern and discuss what we need to to stabilize the pocket depending on fabric choices.

  1. Using a sheet of large paper (freezer paper, kraft paper or paper by the roll like I have here), lay the back pattern piece of Travel Trio Two with the cut on fold edge on the edge of the paper
  2. Trace the sideseam, armscye, shoulder and neckline on the paper, transferring any markings
  3. Measure your duster length from the bone on the back of your neck to your desired length. To do this solo, I follow the tape measure down the back of my legs with my hand, til I reach the spot I want, then I bend and let go of the tape at my neck and hold the tape to my body. I can then reach back and see what that number is on the tape. Or you can mark a doorway opening with your back neck measurement and your knee or calf with a pencil and measure the door frame using your tape measure
  4. Measure from the CB neckline along the edge of the paper to your desired length (plus hem allowance). Mark that on the paper at the paper's edge.
  5. Using a French curve ruler, lay the ruler long the existing hem shape to transfer the shape to your hem. OR you may simply slide down the pattern to your new mark, trace the shape and slide it back up.
  6. Using a straight edge, lay it on the sideseam of your pattern and bring it down to your hem length and draw straight out. It will be at an A-line angle. 
  7. Cut out your pattern piece
  8. Connect your hem curve to your sideseam by drawing a line between them
  9. Repeat for the front. BUT, be sure to lay the back pattern piece on top of the front pattern piece, matching shoulder seams. Ensure that your sideseam length between your newly drafted patterns match.


To draft a pocket:

  1. You can use your pattern envelope to create a pocket
  2. Trace it onto paper, marking 1" down from one of the short ends. This will become the pocket's folded-over topstitched edge
  3. You can interface the whole pocket with knit interfacing, or you can line it with a woven fabric of similar care (e.g. cotton/cotton lycra, or rayon Bemberg lining/rayon lycra, or poly with poly/lycra knits.) If you line it, you will cut a second pocket but cut it off at the 1" mark. 
  4. Cut out your pocket template, fold over the top and see how you like the size - bear in mind, you will turn under the edges of the pocket 1/2" on the three remaining sides and topstitch the pocket in place on the front of the long hoodie
  5. Pin the pocket template to the unsewn fronts of your pattern, to determine placement that is ideal for you!
  6. Cut out two pockets per side of your hoodie (4 pockets total).
  7. Interface the top 2" of the pocket
  8. Fold the pocket top down 1" and topstitch this in place
  9. Press under the remaining 3 sides. You can secure these with Seam a Steam first.
  10. Using Washaway Wonder Tape or blue painter's tape, tape your pocket down to your hoodie, measuring UP from your bottom hem and in from the center front to ensure you have it in the same place on both front pieces.
  11. Topstitch the pocket in place on all four fronts
  12. Sew the hoodie as the instructions indicate

That's it! an easy pattern hack to make a long hooded duster cardigan that is reversible!

Fabric suggestions:

For cooler weather: lightweight sweater knits, French terry, ITY, Brushed polyester knit

For warmer weather: Haatchi sheer knits, linen knit, stretch mesh (embroidered, printed), crochet knits, rayon/lycra jersey, 

Travel Trio Two 331
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